I visit Château lascombes on october 20th, 2022, a week before the breaking news that perturbs the world of fine wine arrives: one of the largest Grand Cru Classé is purchased by a us investor. on that day i am warmly welcomed at the estate by karine Barbier, the Public relations Manager, and Delphine Barboux, the technical Director. With the two ladies, we are tasting the samples of the 2022 vintage Merlot and Cabernet sauvignon. the Merlot has already seen a barrel and has a “prise de bois” stage at the moment, while Cabernet is fresh from the tank and is vibrant, juicy, and aromatic, promising a bright future. Dominique Befve, the General Manager, calls by to greet me. he seems overwhelmed and quickly retreats, saying he is expecting an important call. now, knowing the news, i am speculating if it was that call…
A LONG AND TUMULTUOUS HISTORY
The property dates back to the 17th century when this land belonged to the Lascombes family. After the French Revolution, it changed hands several times and at the moment of 1855 Classification was run by a noble lady, Mademoiselle Hue. In 1867, new owners, the Chaix d’Est-Ange family constructed an elegant “bâtisse”, that we are lucky to admire today. In the first half of the 20th century, the property undergoes through the dark years – the vineyard area shrinks and the quality degrades due to the two world wars, economic crises, and negligent management.
Things start changing when in 1952 Alexis Lichine, a visionary and an American businessman of Russian origin, acquires the estate. He modernises the premises and expands the vineyard area, also with his constant travel and restless enthusiasm, boosting the reputation of Château Lascombes, especially in the United States. In 1971 the property is sold again, this time to the British brewery group Bass Charrington which continues with further expansion and investments but finally in 2001 sells the estate to the US real estate group Colony Capital. The new owners appoint Dominique Befve, the former technical director of the Lafite properties, to steer the Château into the new millennium. Befve stays at the wheel when the medical insurance company MACSF acquires the estate in 2011. He contributes to the further expansion and restructuration of the vineyards, modernisation of the vat room and cellar, and improvement of the wine quality, working with Michel Rolland as a consultant. During the 20 years of service, Dominique Befve managed to boost the image of the property that before was widely considered underperforming for its grade and build a strong reputation in the American and Asian markets. In October 2022, the Bordeaux status quo is shaken again. It always happens when a property of this size and importance changes hands.
The US farming magnate Gaylon Lawrence acquired Château Lascombes for an undisclosed sum. MACSF will stay as a minority partner. From now on, the estate will be run by Lawrence Family Wine Estates which includes Heitz Cellar, Burgess Cellars, Ink Grade, and Stony Hill Vineyard in California and is managed by the prominent Master Sommelier Carlton McCoy.
LASCOMBES TODAY
Château Lascombes today is the biggest classified property in Margaux, spreading over 120ha, stunning 12% of the appellation. The vineyard of Lascombes is extremely parcellated, with plots scattered all over the appellation, in the communes of Margaux, Cantenac, and Soussans. The diverse terroir adds to the richness and complexity but complicates the vineyard work and requires a meticulous study of the land quality potential. Château Lascombes is one of the few Margaux estates where Merlot sets the tone with 50% of the plantings. It is complemented by 45% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot. The average age of vines is 35 years.
The quick vineyard expansion, including the incorporation of the neighbouring Château Martines, a former Cru Bourgeois, with its 28 ha, required a significant reconstruction of the cellar. In 2021, the new cellar, designed by Arnaud Boulain (BPM architects), was inaugurated. The spacious, aerial, gravity-flow “cuvier” is built with ergonomics in mind. Forty news, tailor-made tanks were added to the previous 32 to expand the plot-based approach to vinification. The impressive elevator in the centre of the building connects the floors and facilitates the movement of wine. Other innovative features are the cooling of the grapes in a special “tunnel” before the cold-soaking stage and an experimental mini-cellar for the winemaking trials.
Château Lascombes is appreciated for its opulent and voluptuous style. The dominance of Merlot contributes much to it, as well as the abundance of new quality oak. The Grand Vin is already approachable after a few years of ageing that appeals to many modern consumers, though it ages beautifully as well.
THE NEW ERA
“Château Lascombes is a special place and we will spare no expense to ensure that we bring it to its full potential,” announced Carlton McCoy, Master Sommelier and managing partner of Lawrence Family Wine Estates. He added that the new owners will invest intensively in improving farming practices. The new strategy will focus on a more meticulous selection of the plot for the first wine that might result in a reduction of volumes of the Grand Vin. Delphine Barboux, the Technical Director, and her winemaking team will remain in place, supported by an expert appointed by Lawrence Family Wine Estates.
As Gaylon Lawrence announced in a press release after the acquisition, “We are honoured to become the new stewards of such a historical estate. This Château has some of the greatest vineyards in Margaux and our family looks forward to caring for Château Lascombes for many generations to 7 come”. The critics look positively at the new page in the estate history and expect a further boost in quality thanks to the extensive investments and cutting-edge expertise.
Valéria Tenison
Château Lascombes
1 cours de Verdun
33460 Margaux – france www.chateau-lascombes.com
