Could you please tell us how you came to the world of saké?
François Chartier: Japan and i have a long story… I have always been fascinated by the culture, the philosophy and the gastronomy of this country and therefore by sake. i think our connection really started in 1992, when i was studying for the World Sommelier competition, to be held in Tokyo in 1995. Then, in 1995, in my first trip in Japan, during the World Sommelier competition in Tokyo, i was so inspired by all sakes breweries i’ve visited around Kobe, Kyoto and Tokyo. Two weeks immersed in trying to understand this culture and discovering its richness in depth. As the competition was taking place in Japan, many visits to Kura were organized and allowed me to better understand the complexity of this historical rice noble beverage. Since then, i’ve visited Japan more then 50 times, and i’ve studied and analysed sake with my aromatic sciences of Molecular Harmony for matching and understand better the amazing process of production, and the so complex aromatic profile of the different sakes.
In 2017, Ms Wakana Tabata (CEO of Tanaka Shuzoten Brewery, where we craft today the sakes of Tanaka 1789 X chartier project) called me to find a way to revolutionize and bring something new to her kura. After a few days on the spot i realized that ”the art of blending” well known in champagne, sherry, port, whiskies and even Bordeaux grand cru wines doesn’t exist in Nihonshu universe. This is how began my journey as « Master Blender », and how the project Tanaka 1789 X chartier was born – i am now also the executive producer of this life changing project. for near than 30 years now my relationship with sake and Japan culture has been unbreakable and the journey just “Re-Beginning”
If you had to describe what is “Molecular Harmonies”, what would you say?
F.C.: The aromatic science of “Molecular Harmonies”, which i’ve created in 2002, and published in 6 books, starting with the world best seller Taste buds and Molecules and L’Essentiel de Chartier (both won the innovative Best World cookbook Award) is the scientific explanation of matching: why does a Syrah wine harmonize with pepper? Why does a daiginjo gain in length with a litchee? Why parmesan paired with coffee?
Simply by an equation: 1+1 = 3! (which is an aromatic synergy effect)
The world of aromas is made up of thousands of molecules, however some are dominant and give identity to a product. So after 25 years of research, in 2002, i was able to detect the dominant molecules of the ingredients, and if two ingredients have the same dominant molecules then when they add up, the result obtained is greater than the sum of the parts. An aromatic synergy is created. This science allows new ways of creativity and understanding of harmonies in ingredients with drinks, ingredients with ingredients or drink with drink. This science is used by chef, sommelier and mixologue around the world, but also by foodies, it’s not only for professional.
What is the signature of Tanaka 1789 x Chartier sakés?
F.C.: continue! continue to promote Nihonshu around the world. in order to do this, we will expand the range, Blend 001 will remain the flagship, and in middle of 2021, the Pavillon of Blend 001 will be released. inspired by the concept of the second wine of the great “châteaux” in Bordeaux. Our Kura also has a small pavillon next door and the story seemed obvious. The Pavillon will follow the same path as its big brother Blend 001: handcrafted, more natural acidity, but a more mouth-filling, sake and textural philosophy, at a lower pr ice then the Blend 001 flagship. later, at the end of 2021, we will release the ”diamond of Blend 001” which will be lets say the “grande cuvée” which will be a blend of different vintages of Blend 001 (2017, 18, 19 and 2020), with a limited production of 200 bottles, in a ultra luxury souvenir cofret. We will continue to release exclusive blends, like the daigingo 28% blend 002 (already available from now), as the years go by, based on exchanges, ideas and daily encounters. it would be fun to continue to collaborate and why not with winemakers, spirits producers… to bring new idea! i like to say : “ Tanaka 1789 X Chartier Sake is the oldest new thing in the world!”
What is your ”perfect” molecular harmony with Tanaka 1789 x Chartier?
F.C.: Tanaka 1789 X chartier Blend 001 sake has a great aromatic versatility due to is crafting process (less polish rice from local variety, different koji use, kimoto and yamahai method, long aging in vat before bottling) and is blending process. The
serving temperature of Blend 001 will make it match with many different dishes. Here we have a unique sake showing a duality for matching with food that goes with sauvignon blanc from Sancerre, as food that match perfectly with chardonnay from Montrachet!
Served at a low temperature of 8 / 10 degrees celsius (Hana Hie), it will show a taste profile similar to that of Sancerre sauvignon blanc, anise-like taste profile, with crisp natural acidity, allowing it to combine wonderfully with this ingredient profile: fennel, coriander, mint, basil… A ceviche will appreciate the freshness of this sake.
Take the time to allow the sake to gradually warm up to 15 degrees celsius (Jo on), to see how it becomes more aromatic, with hints of pear, coconut and honey, and also with more umami texture like some chardonnay, Montrachet style from Burgundy. So the pairings will call for things with more bite: like scallop snacks with a parmesan emulsion.Or as advice the Sake Samurai Xavier Thuizat, from Hotel crillon de Paris, during one of our recent tasting, to match it with a large Paris mushroom strain, stuffed then roasted, watercress juice and hazelnut; or another appetizer with a bouillon of blond and brown morels, smoked quail egg, buckwheat-burnt bread broth.
Finally, when it finds its junmai profile rank around 20º / 24º, the simplest and saltiest pairings such as iberian ham bellota or bottarga (karasumi) are fabulous harmonies. Sakes have this ”temperature” which makes them formidable in creating unique harmonies. That’s the way we have create the new sake matching concept of “Time pairing”.
Revolution is on the go.
The “re-beginning” of time…
Thanks to François Chartier for sharing his time – C.C.G.
www.tanaka1789xchartier.com
