Château de Candale
The renaissance of a Saint-Emilion Grand Cru
Château de Candale is a property located in Saint-Laurent des Combes, AOC Saint-Emilion Grand Cru. It has its origins in the 14th century, the time of the English Aquitaine, with its creation by Lady Marguerite de Suffolk Kandall, a descendant of King Edward III of England and Duke of Aquitaine. She married Count Jean de Foix. He was a supporter of English Aquitaine so he was imprisoned after the victory at Castillon of the army of Charles VII, King of France. For the anecdote the property was already producing wine at the time. It was even present on few tables of Lords.
The property passed through the ages until today but knows very little about the last six centuries. In 2010, Château de Candale was bought by Jean-Louis Vicard who was previously known for his activity in the cooperage.
Focus on Jean-Louis Vicard, owner of Château de Candale
” I worked for a cooperage in my first job, I am from a family related to Cognac for 6 generations. At the end of my business studies, in the early 1990s I decided to take over the family business and therefore come to work at the Cooperage Vicard. This is a company that was founded in 1875 by my family.
My brother took care of all the technical part and I was in charge of the marketing and business development / prospecting new markets. From 1992 to 1994 I went around the world to develop export barrels. We had presence from six wine-producing countries to 30 countries. I continued this business for twenty years which allowed me to travel to many vineyards, enjoy and meet winemakers around the world. It is through these experiences that was born in me a passion for wine which surpassed my first passion for the wood … I already liked wine, I have had courses in wine tasting here or there but definitely I learned more about wine during these trips.
It was between 2000 and 2005 when I began to think on the project to buy a winery to make my own wine. At first when I told my family they were quite reluctant but gradually as I worked my project and I reparlais them they changed their minds. In 2008 I got their agreement to develop in same time of my job at the cooperage my own project to make wine. So, I started looking for a vineyard. Currently I keep an activity in the cooperage but I spend 2/3 of my time at Candale. “(Jean-Louis Vicard)
Why did you choose to buy the Château de Candale ?
“At the beginning of my research, between 2005 and 2009, I visited forty properties on the advice of experts. What was important was that I could keep in touch with the cooperage which means being in a close cooperage Vicard and therefore on the right bank area. I was also looking for a great terroir and not just a beautiful stone building.
It was in 2009 that I found and bought Candale from Stephen Adams (Château Fonplégade – Saint-Emilion, L’Enclos – Pomerol). He had just take 6 properties. The ambition for Candale was already qualitative but Châtau de Candale was diluted in many other properties and they were struggling to devote enough time to Candale wines. This is the tasting of the 2008 vintage that I decided to buy the property.
As soon as I arrived we were looking to restructure the vineyard. The winery as well as it was already being restructured. By against the house was totally neglected.
I walk to the affinity and I had met and befriended the team of Stéphane Derenoncourt. They helped me in the selection and installation I have chosen to surround myself with them to advise me and help me. “(Jean-Louis Vicard)
Where does the name of the Château de Candale come from?
The property takes its name from the first owner (there are six centuries ago) of the domain, Lady Margaret de Suddolk Kandall, descendant of Edward III, King of England and Duke of Aquitaine .
What is sought annually at creating wines of Château de Candale ?
“Philosophy and achieve a perfect balance between tradition, fruits and oak flavours. If we open wines from the vintage 2008 to 2011 we will see the evolution. Initially it is quite extract wine marked by the wood, pretty focused and pretty wooded. Vintages 2008, 2009 and 2010 are mature enough, pretty wooded. As Cooper I wanted to return to more balanced wines. On vintages like 2012 and 2013 there was always the wooded but more balanced way, the fruit is highlighted. It is on of the finest wines more balanced, with a balance in breeding better mastered.
We used 100% of new barrels, currently we use 40%. Today I use that barrels made with fine-grained oak with a M or M+ toasting. I’m very watchful cooking and at the right temperature for that final barrel brings the minimum empyreumatiques aromas
The property has 13 hectares which was divided into 32 plots. It is a real puzzle of terroir flavors. What I like is to taste the grapes from different plots before harvest to see what they can bring / give.
For my wines I particularly look for a balance between the fruit and terroir. I want to taste the identity of my terroir, of grapes and not the identity of the Cooper whose barrels were used for aging wine.
For our rosé is produced only bled rosé and depending on the year. The first year we did the bled rosé in 2013 we went on pink direct pressing. “(Jean-Louis Vicard)
You talk about growing up in range, quality, that is to say ? Is your ultimate goal is the top?
“I ‘m willing to go more upmarket, as so why not one day be recognized by the ranking. This is the idea , the project because the ranking is based on the quality. Could possibly occur in the standings in 2022. “(Jean-Louis Vicard)
Anecdote : Restaurant L’Atelier de Candale
During the various trips during his first life as cooper, Jean-Louis Vicard made the observation that the vast majority of foreign vineyards not only to open the property but also offer other services such the on-site dining and a real open to tourists / consumers shop. To summarize a place that can accommodate walk-in and may suggest to enjoy wine with a meal. So naturally he made plans to open its property in a real restaurant with a creative chef Charles Pointreau (former chef-second to Ribaudière). In 2012 the project became a reality with the opening of the restaurant L’Atelier de Candale.
Thanks to Jean-Louis Vicard for his hospitality.
Jonathan Choukroun Chicheportiche
Facebook of the Château de Candale
Facebook of L’Atelier de Candale